Sargies Tower upgrade

[Sarge104]

Current configuration:

Case Nzxt Lexa-S Gaming Tower Case - Black w/ Blue Light
Processor [== Quad Core ==] AMD Phenom™ II X4 965 Black Edition Quad-Core CPU
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3P -- AMD 770 Chipset w/7.1 Sound, Gb LAN, S-ATA Raid, USB 2.0, PCI-E MB
Memory 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1333 Memory Module
Video Card NVIDIA GeForce GTX 285 – 1GB - Single Card
Power Supply 1000 Watt -- Extreme Power Supply - [Gaming Series] Quad SLI + Active PFC
Processor Cooling iBUYPOWER AMD Liquid CPU Cooling Fan System Kit
Master Hard Drive 1 TB HARD DRIVE - [16M Cache, 7200 RPM, 3.0Gb/s]
2nd Hard Drive 1 TB HARD DRIVE - [16M Cache, 7200 RPM, 3.0Gb/s]
Optical Drive 22X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Blue
Sound Card 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard
Network Card Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)
Operating System Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium 64-Bit
Flash Media Reader/Writer 12-In-1 Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer - Blue
iBUYPOWER Labs - Internal Expansion Internal USB Expansion System

Been having heat issues with the cpu for a while now and the graphics card is starting to show its teeth. Going to upgrade the internals a bit


Upgrades Inbound:

Corsair H100I
M5A99X EVO R2.0
AMD FX‑8350
2 x 8gig stick ddr3 1600 Crucial low profile (installed)
GeForce Titan Graphics Card

[Sarge104]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146060
tower pics

[DrPop]

Go get 'em Sarge! :D Oooohh...I see a little water cooling is in your future. Nice. :)
Pretty nice case for a mid tower. I am partial to the giant towers just because I like working inside a huge enclosure that way there seems like enough room for everything and I don't scrape my hands up in the process, but for a more compact unit, that thing seems like it's got all you'd need and looks good to boot!
Best of luck with the new build and O/Cing that FX CPU. If you can O/C it high enough, you will get some decent performance I think. ;)

[Sarge104]

Go get 'em Sarge! :D Oooohh...I see a little water cooling is in your future. Nice. :)
Pretty nice case for a mid tower. I am partial to the giant towers just because I like working inside a huge enclosure that way there seems like enough room for everything and I don't scrape my hands up in the process, but for a more compact unit, that thing seems like it's got all you'd need and looks good to boot!
Best of luck with the new build and O/Cing that FX CPU. If you can O/C it high enough, you will get some decent performance I think. ;)

Only issue I'm running into is replacing the I/O ports on the front door. I broke the headphone/mic jacks and I'm in the process of getting the info for replacing the board they are on.

The I purchased this tower in its current config back in '09 and unfortunately at that time I just didn't know enough to make informed purchases at that time. I think the water cooling was inadequate for the amount of power that I was putting through the processor and the fans that I started in the case with were just too under powered to get the job done. I've upgraded the fans already and I'm just waiting on the rest of the parts to do the rest of the work.

[Fire$torm]

Yeeeeeha! Congrats on the new hardware. :-bd

[John P. Myers]

8gig stick ddr3 1600 CL11 (Kingston/Crucial, can't make up my mind)


Noooooooo! CL11 is too high :p These Crucial (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006074%20600006127%20600006158&IsNodeId=1&name=8) modules would be optimal. CL8. Much faster.

[Sarge104]

Noooooooo! CL11 is too high :p These Crucial (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006074%20600006127%20600006158&IsNodeId=1&name=8) modules would be optimal. CL8. Much faster.

Thanks for the info, I was wondering if there would be a bottle neck with such a high latency on the ram. Will look into getting something with a lower latency. My next question would be would it be more efficient to have two 8gig chips or do the four 2 gig chips at the same speed. I'm pretty sure nothing the computer would be doing would be able to take advantage of anything over 16gigs but I'm pretty sure the board supports up to 32gigs if it comes to it.

[John P. Myers]

Thanks for the info, I was wondering if there would be a bottle neck with such a high latency on the ram. Will look into getting something with a lower latency. My next question would be would it be more efficient to have two 8gig chips or do the four 2 gig chips at the same speed. I'm pretty sure nothing the computer would be doing would be able to take advantage of anything over 16gigs but I'm pretty sure the board supports up to 32gigs if it comes to it.

Since the FX-8350 supports 2 memory channels, 2 x 8GB is more efficient and more stable when overclocked. Also makes the CPU more stable when highly overclocked. Also, fewer modules = less power usage.

[Sarge104]

Since the FX-8350 supports 2 memory channels, 2 x 8GB is more efficient and more stable when overclocked. Also makes the CPU more stable when highly overclocked. Also, fewer modules = less power usage.

Appreciate the info, I must've been going through a brain fart when I wrote out the 4x2gig...meant 4x4gig to achieve the 16 gig output.

[Fire$torm]

Sarge,

Have you actually placed your order yet?

Although it would a sizable increase in outlay of cash, the following would have better long term value.

Instead of the air cooled Titan go with EVGA's Hydro Cooper Titan (Link (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130913&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Desktop+Graphics+Cards-_-N82E16814130913&gclid=CNS69In9-LcCFZE-MgodXF8AcQ))

And add the Swiftech H220 cooler I mentioned before. That combination would help extend the life of the CPU and GPU. And the H220 is much less expensive then piecing together a liquid cooling solution from any of the manufacturers out there including Swiftech.

[Sarge104]

Sarge,

Have you actually placed your order yet?

Although it would a sizable increase in outlay of cash, the following would have better long term value.

Instead of the air cooled Titan go with EVGA's Hydro Cooper Titan (Link (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130913&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Desktop+Graphics+Cards-_-N82E16814130913&gclid=CNS69In9-LcCFZE-MgodXF8AcQ))

And add the Swiftech H220 cooler I mentioned before. That combination would help extend the life of the CPU and GPU. And the H220 is much less expensive then piecing together a liquid cooling solution from any of the manufacturers out there including Swiftech.

We were of the same mind, I'm looking into getting both but the issue is becoming availability and shipping. Right now I'm having trouble even getting access to that Swiftech cooler but I've not given up hope and I'm dealing with my local computer supply for info if they can get me that evga titan card.

From what I'm reading with the Titan though the watercooling will be marginal help with overclocking since it is primarly a voltage issue with trying to supply that beast with enough juice.

[Fire$torm]

We were of the same mind, I'm looking into getting both but the issue is becoming availability and shipping. Right now I'm having trouble even getting access to that Swiftech cooler but I've not given up hope and I'm dealing with my local computer supply for info if they can get me that evga titan card.

From what I'm reading with the Titan though the watercooling will be marginal help with overclocking since it is primarly a voltage issue with trying to supply that beast with enough juice.

Roger that Sarge.

Btw, I can make you a similar offer I've made to other teammates (As in ZERO middleman charges!!!). The MicroCenter store near me has the Swiftech H220 in stock atm. If your connection cannot acquire it, I'd be happy to pick one up for you. MC's price is $139.99 + 6% Sale tax. Shipping weight is under 6 lbs so USPS fees including insurance from my house to Billings MT (Just picked largest city) would be $19.98. If this is a reasonable solution for you then PM me at your earliest convenience. Just realize there is no guarantee the unit will stay in stock for any length of time.

I did check my MC store for the Hydro Copper Titan but no go. I did discover however that EVGA does sell the Titan waterblock separately and is in stock on their website for $149.99 $169.99 + shipping. I also found a review of some of the aftermarket waterblocks for any EVGA Titan (I presume the aircooled & Hydro Copper versions use the same circuit board layout). The review is a work in progress. Summarized blog (Here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285482-Stren-s-Titan-Water-Block-Roundup)) - Full review (Here (http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/water-cooling/nvidia-titan-water-block-roundup-coming-soon/))

[Sarge104]

Roger that Sarge.

Btw, I can make you a similar offer I've made to other teammates (As in ZERO middleman charges!!!). The MicroCenter store near me has the Swiftech H220 in stock atm. If your connection cannot acquire it, I'd be happy to pick one up for you. MC's price is $139.99 + 6% Sale tax. Shipping weight is under 6 lbs so USPS fees including insurance from my house to Billings MT (Just picked largest city) would be $19.98. If this is a reasonable solution for you then PM me at your earliest convenience. Just realize there is no guarantee the unit will stay in stock for any length of time.

I did check my MC store for the Hydro Copper Titan but no go. I did discover however that EVGA does sell the Titan waterblock separately and is in stock on their website for $149.99 $169.99 + shipping. I also found a review of some of the aftermarket waterblocks for any EVGA Titan (I presume the aircooled & Hydro Copper versions use the same circuit board layout). The review is a work in progress. Summarized blog (Here (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285482-Stren-s-Titan-Water-Block-Roundup)) - Full review (Here (http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/water-cooling/nvidia-titan-water-block-roundup-coming-soon/))


Just got off the phone with the LCS and I'm almost to the order point with everything. Currently sitting pretty with motherboard, chip, water cooler (they did have the H220 :)), making sure the ram and card are available now. I'm going to have to stay with the fan cooled card for a bit but I believe with my case cooling it should be sufficient till the cards warranty runs out and I can break it open and put a water casing on it....So close, getting the gitters!

[Fire$torm]

Great. Glad it's all working out well enough. Enjoy the new hardware! \m/

[John P. Myers]

When i bought my 2 EVGA GTX 590 Hydro Coppers a couple years ago, i bought them directly from EVGA's site. There were no shipping charges or sales tax added onto their displayed price for me. Playing the game where you wake up every morning at 8AM CST to check if they finally have them in stock and are no longer on "Auto-Notify" becomes fun. And i can't even begin to describe the rush you get when filling in your billing/shipping info knowing that if you're not faster than someone else, it'll be sold out again before you finish typing :D Good times.

Anyway, it can be a hassle, but it saved me over $200 in the end.

[John P. Myers]

This Crucial CL8 RAM i linked to previously is now on sale :D http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148655&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL062513&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL062513-_-EMC-062513-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20148655-L020A $70 normally. With Promo Code EMCXPVR73 it's only $48. And it's only 1.35v.

[Fire$torm]

Yo JPM,

IIRC when I got my refurb. X58 FTW3 from their site, they did charge for shipping. But maybe that's just for refurbished items.

[Sarge104]

This Crucial CL8 RAM i linked to previously is now on sale :D http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148655&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL062513&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL062513-_-EMC-062513-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20148655-L020A $70 normally. With Promo Code EMCXPVR73 it's only $48. And it's only 1.35v.

Here was the question that I posed to my LCS, with the voltage being 1.35 vrs 1.5 will there be any impact on communication between the ram and the cpu? I know with the lower voltage that will help with heat and allow something else to use the power but I'm just leery on going with ram with a lower voltage.

[Fire$torm]

Here was the question that I posed to my LCS, with the voltage being 1.35 vrs 1.5 will there be any impact on communication between the ram and the cpu? I know with the lower voltage that will help with heat and allow something else to use the power but I'm just leery on going with ram with a lower voltage.

Nope, no issues at all. Mem controller is designed to handle a narrow range of voltages in accordance with DDR3 standards which RAM makers must abide by. So your all good there Sarge.

[Sarge104]

Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model BLT8G3D1608ET3LX0

2 Sticks on the way! :D Thanks for the info JPM!

Getting the rest of the stuff settled before I order the rest but it should be within next week :D

[John P. Myers]

http://www.microcenter.com/product/411309/H220_CPU_Cooler_with

The Swiftech H220 CAN be shipped from MicroCenter ;)

[Fire$torm]

http://www.microcenter.com/product/411309/H220_CPU_Cooler_with

The Swiftech H220 CAN be shipped from MicroCenter ;)

Duh, I was thinking it was an instore special... Okay then nm my offer :P

[Sarge104]

Recieved the memory yesterday and installed in my current mother board. I know the mother board supports 1600 Ram but its trying to read it as 1333 and locks up when I force it to read it as such. Stress tested it at 1333 using memtest last night to 133% without any faults. Going to go into the bios and force the 1600 read again and do manual timings to see if the errors clear.

*Update* Updated timings and dispit a slow start up the computer is looking a bit more responsive when loading programs and such. After going through the memory settings I'm a tad confused on a few of them, will post a screenshot of my bios page and see if some of the questions can be answered. It looks like the mother board does not support the lower voltage of the ram which is interesting but the 1.5v it is providing should not be a hinderence...Will test once again and post the results soon.

[Sarge104]

1434
Current settings, changed Cas# Latency to 8, ras to cas to 8, row recharge to 8 and minimum ras active time to 24.

[John P. Myers]

Most motherboards do require you to go into BIOS and and set RAM to 1600 MHz even though it claims to support that speed normally, so don't be discouraged by that. Looks like you got it working :) Your board not supporting low voltage isn't a problem either. 1.5v is actually the standard DDR3 spec anyway so no harm would be done to your RAM. Too bad your board won't allow you to use less electricity though :/

Just because i like to tinker, i'd change the following:
TwTr Command Delay from 6 to 5
Write Recovery Time from 12 to 10
Precharge Time from 6 to 5
Row Cycle Time from 40 to 33
Ras to Ras Delay from 5 to 4

If those settings work, great. Then i would change Command Timing to 1T. If not, no big deal. I'm glad your system already feels more snappy and responsive :)

[Sarge104]

Most motherboards do require you to go into BIOS and and set RAM to 1600 MHz even though it claims to support that speed normally, so don't be discouraged by that. Looks like you got it working :) Your board not supporting low voltage isn't a problem either. 1.5v is actually the standard DDR3 spec anyway so no harm would be done to your RAM. Too bad your board won't allow you to use less electricity though :/

Just because i like to tinker, i'd change the following:
TwTr Command Delay from 6 to 5
Write Recovery Time from 12 to 10
Precharge Time from 6 to 5
Row Cycle Time from 40 to 33
Ras to Ras Delay from 5 to 4

If those settings work, great. Then i would change Command Timing to 1T. If not, no big deal. I'm glad your system already feels more snappy and responsive :)

When I started to do the memory tests the computer BSOD'ed put the timings back on auto to see if that corrected it and it did. Going to start with baby steps and see what the hang up is. Currently still going at 1600 on the ram but just testing with the auto settings for a bit to see if it crashes again.

[DrPop]

Does your motherboard have a setting for using the XMP Profile built in to the RAM? If so, try setting it on that instead of manual.

[Sarge104]

Unfortunately I'm unable to use the ram to its full potential with my current mother board :(. There is something preventing me from using it to its full 1600 CLB and I've clocked it back down to 1333 to maintain stability. Will do some stress testing again to see if any further crashes occur.

[John P. Myers]

Your motherboard's BIOS doesn't have a selection to enable XMP? Weird...but then i'm not used to AMD boards. Were you getting another board in your build plans?

[DrPop]

Your motherboard's BIOS doesn't have a selection to enable XMP? Weird...but then i'm not used to AMD boards. Were you getting another board in your build plans?

Newer AMD boards have XMP support - at least my ASUS Crosshair Formula (Socket AM3+) did. That board he is using is a bit dated - it's a Gigabyte so good quality probably, but it's got the 700 series chipset in it. Anything with a 900 series chipset will have XMP support. I'm sure it's a chipset issue, because when that board came out, I'll bet you couldn't even buy 1600 RAM. Or if you could, it would have been quite expensive. ;)

[Fire$torm]

Newer AMD boards have XMP support - at least my ASUS Crosshair Formula (Socket AM3+) did. That board he is using is a bit dated - it's a Gigabyte so good quality probably, but it's got the 700 series chipset in it. Anything with a 900 series chipset will have XMP support. I'm sure it's a chipset issue, because when that board came out, I'll bet you couldn't even buy 1600 RAM. Or if you could, it would have been quite expensive. ;)

Not quite accurate there Bro. Trinity has an MSI 790FX-GD70 MB & AMD Phenom-II X6 1090T. It's running G.Skill with XMP-1600 profile. Me thinks XMP had just been accepted into the market around the time the 7xx series chipset was developed, so AMD probably reserved XMP for the Mid/High End as a marketing ploy to boost sales of higher price point boards.

Btw Jed, you should remember this hardware as it used to be yours....! :P

[DrPop]

I stand corrected and do remember the hardware - but I will agree the 790FX was top of the line chipset, so it was probably the only one that got the XMP settings like you say. If Sarge's board doesn't have it, then it probably means the 770 chipset didn't get that feature, right? AMD held it back for the top end most likely...

[Sarge104]

unfortunately the ram currently isn't being used to its full extent and a new motherboard is in the pipes...first post has all the info :D

[Sarge104]

Swiftech is unable to sell the H220 in the USA due to legal reasons. I'm looking at the Corsair Hydro Series as a possible alternative unless someone has a better suggestion?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181035

The one I'm looking at.

Currently ordering the rest of the parts today! Excited to say the least!

Ordered:
M5A99X EVO R2.0
AMD FX‑8350
GeForce Titan Graphics Card

Build date 07/30/13!!

[Fire$torm]

Shame on AseTek. They should focus on improving their products instead of going after Switech.

I agree

[Sarge104]

Ordered the H110 today, build date still set for 30JUL13. Pictures after the build completes :D

[Sarge104]

Called last Friday to make sure the parts were in and was told they were still being shipped with a few that already arrived. Stopped by on Monday and was told the mother board was not even ordered yet, despite paying for it in advance two weeks before. Needless to say I was pissed and stopped by on the 30th to express my displeasure to the owner of the store. Mother board was ordered yesterday and should arrive in two days. Still pissed though.

[Fire$torm]

Called last Friday to make sure the parts were in and was told they were still being shipped with a few that already arrived. Stopped by on Monday and was told the mother board was not even ordered yet, despite paying for it in advance two weeks before. Needless to say I was pissed and stopped by on the 30th to express my displeasure to the owner of the store. Mother board was ordered yesterday and should arrive in two days. Still pissed though.

Sorry to hear of the hassles Sarge. I would guess that the concept of an automated inventory control system has completely eluded the stores proprietor. Sad considering that they sell PC tech.....

[DrPop]

Sorry to hear of the bum luck Sarge. But you can still get it in time to help out on the SETI WOW Challenge! What's your Zodiac sign? You use it to sign up. ;)

[Sarge104]

Sorry to hear of the bum luck Sarge. But you can still get it in time to help out on the SETI WOW Challenge! What's your Zodiac sign? You use it to sign up. ;)

Just got the call that the motherboard was in today, of course they cannot help me build today and said it would be mid week next week...So, looking up install directions and seeing if I'm missing any tools and will grab the items today if I think I can do it :D

[John P. Myers]

Just got the call that the motherboard was in today, of course they cannot help me build today and said it would be mid week next week...So, looking up install directions and seeing if I'm missing any tools and will grab the items today if I think I can do it :D

You can do it!!!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk

[Sarge104]

You can do it!!!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk

Thanks for the encouragement, picked up the parts yesterday after finally convincing myself I could do it. It took four hours and about 8-16 try's installing and uninstalling the motherboard to route wires but all the equipment was installed. I was afraid to turn on the computer at first and finally flicked the power button...No power, no nothing....Then I turned on the PSU and all the equipment came back up :D.

Now I just have to repair Vista and the little monster should really be alive and kicking :D

[Fire$torm]

.....I was afraid to turn on the computer at first and finally flicked the power button...No power, no nothing....Then I turned on the PSU and all the equipment came back up :D...

=)) =))

[Cruncher Pete]

I was afraid to turn on the computer at first and finally flicked the power button...No power, no nothing....Then I turned on the PSU and all the equipment came back up :D.



Don't worry Sarge, you are not the only one for I did the same thing two weeks ago. One day I was looking at this machine (I have no side covers installed on the case and in deed some do not have a case at all) when right in front of me there was a sudden faint explosion sound followed with a spark of flame coming from the PSU including the horrible smell that is or will be familiar to some when a capacitor explodes. I took the machine to my work bench where I had a known working PSU that I use for test purposes. I cleaned up the MB and all the fans etc and turned on the power on the PSU and the machine. Nothing. My first reaction was that the MB was taken down with the sudden surge of power from the old PSU. I went away dismayed that I not only have to by a new MB and PSU but there could be a damage done to the CPU also. I resigned to the fact that I lost one machine as I can not afford any parts at the moment. A few days later, I needed to use my Electric Power Drill and when I plugged it in the power socket, I noticed that there was no lead in there for it should still have the PSU lead in that socket. Don't laugh, I wasn't at the time, but than again the machine is back up and running.

[Sarge104]

Quick update: Trouble shooting the fact that Windows would not boot uncovered a broken Sata end going into the Primary Hard Drive. Quick call found a new connecter but was unable to bring Windows up still. A few tries with the recovery disk uncovered my worst fear, due to the hardware change the operating system thought I was hijacking the OS.

Luckily when I did a reinstall it put all the old files in an archive so all my bookmarks, vacation pictures, programs are still avalible. Now I'm in hour three of updates...updates...and more updates....:D

[Fire$torm]

Hey Sarge, I'm happy to hear the data recovery was successful. I'd like to offer a bit of advice that has saved me countless hours when Windows gets toasted.
And it goes like this...

Separate Windows OS from your personal/critical data by partitioning your HDD/SSD.

1st partition:
For any flavor of Windows 7, a 40GB~50GB primary partition will be more then adequate. Along with the OS in this partition, you can install all your utility programs like your favorite Anti-Virus, disk maintenance, GPU/CPU OverClocking, etc..

2nd partition:
The remaining HDD space is allocated to this partition and all your big applications (ie: apps that hog tons of of your HDD space like M$ Office). Your favorite game programs like Call of Duty: Black Ops. Personal data like family pics. The 20-page report your boss wanted submitted last Tuesday, etc...

I would also suggest creating separate folders for all the major types programs/data stored on the 2nd partition. Setting up the partition this way also makes it easier to backup data since it will (as in should) be easier to find.

Drive D: (2nd Partition)
D:\Applications
D:\Documents
D:\Games
D:\Pictures
D:\Music

You get the idea..

And one last thing to consider, move all your Windows special My <Whatever> folders to the 2nd partition therefore having all the benefits described above.
If your interested check out this How-To ---> http://headstrongfarm.hubpages.com/hub/Windows-7_-_Moving_My_Documents

F$

P.S. All the above will not save your data if your HDD gives up the ghost. Always backup your important files. For some good backup tips check out this Tekzilla show: World Backup Day Special (Link (http://revision3.com/tekzilla/world-backup-day-2012))

[Sarge104]

Hey Sarge, I'm happy to hear the data recovery was successful. I'd like to offer a bit of advice that has saved me countless hours when Windows gets toasted.
And it goes like this...

Separate Windows OS from your personal/critical data by partitioning your HDD/SSD.



Currently doing a slightly less efficient method of just using separate HHD's for that very purpose. I had a hard drive go out taking out everything except what I had burned to CD back in the day. So I'm big with separation of data.

My problem isn't with losing the personal stuff, its updating windows...ugh, spent over 6hr's just with the updates alone...Hate Vista for all the updates/bloat but it's stable. In the future I might upgrade to 7 or if they ever get 8 right but right now I'm just sticking with what I've got disks and keys for :D

Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I should break in the Titan on? It looks nice and all but I'd like to do some testing :D

[GregK]

ya win 8 is a pita as far as im concerned errors daily and have to constantly relog into everything. hey congrats for getting the box up and running!

[Fire$torm]

Knock knock. If ya want to go Win7 and extend the trial period, use infinite ReArm. The best utility I've found for that is Trilogy v2.8. It works on all versions of Win7.

Trilogy v2.8 can be had (Here (http://www.filedropper.com/tril-te))

PM me for more info.

[Sarge104]

Got boinc up and running and was setting up Corsair link to monitor temps, it has a handy feature to shut down the computer if the temps get too high and I was showing the girlfriend the features. She asked why I was running the temps in C and what the temp was in F so I went to options and changed the temp settings...Needless to say I didn't put any delay in shutdown and the computer thought I was way over spec on temps since the program doesn't convert the temps you put in the settings automatically....Shut down the computer immediately LOL!


Running at 31C at full load on both SETI and PrimeGrid programs...I wish I could separate a processor for the gpu since I've not tested it out but I will push the processor today on the factory settings then I'll do a gpu burn tomorrow :D

UPDATE: Came back home this evening and found that the max temp for the CPU hit around 40C during the hottest part of the day (85F). The gpu had some light work that brought it up to 70C but I'm hoping that some tweaks with the fan settings will allow for cooler temps tomorrow :D

[DrPop]

Those are great temps! Awesome addition to the fleet. :) Thanks Sarge!

[Sarge104]

Those are great temps! Awesome addition to the fleet. :) Thanks Sarge!

These are stock settings for the time being, after the primegrid challenge I will start to try some over clocking :D

[Sarge104]

Started out stock for the Primegrid challenge, but I was five hours late due to short lunch and getting off late from work. Still off to a good start right behind one other SetiUsa member and we are cranking the WU's. I turned up the heat by adding .3ghz to the processor and temps have stayed at 35C...the computer shut down at first from what I'm assuming was over heat, found that Corsair had the water cooling fans fixed speed, turned them to max and the temps have stayed at 35C :D. We'll have fun and kick some Primegrid WU arse!

[Sarge104]

Sargies current tower settings CPU/GPU (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/140555/140555_original.jpg)


So quick Q, why can't I upload a 128kb picture file? Is it a matter of picture size or dimensions(the picture is pretty huge, I can re-size it)? Or just board permissions?

[Fire$torm]

Sargies current tower settings CPU/GPU (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/140555/140555_original.jpg)


So quick Q, why can't I upload a 128kb picture file? Is it a matter of picture size or dimensions(the picture is pretty huge, I can re-size it)? Or just board permissions?

Not sure but I'll take a look. Probably something messed up with user permissions.

[John P. Myers]

Sargies current tower settings CPU/GPU (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/140555/140555_original.jpg)


So quick Q, why can't I upload a 128kb picture file? Is it a matter of picture size or dimensions(the picture is pretty huge, I can re-size it)? Or just board permissions?

I have that problem too. And sometimes my attachments don't show at all but instead get a link that has to be clicked. Very annoying

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4 beta

[Fire$torm]

I have that problem too. And sometimes my attachments don't show at all but instead get a link that has to be clicked. Very annoying

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4 beta

Can you try it again and let me know?

[Sarge104]

14791478

Old set up and new set up after four hours of in and out of the mother board...LOL, I'm definitely not a wire guru :D


Edit: It may have been a picture dimension issue for me...I down sized these pics and it took them.

[Sarge104]

Quick update, during the last challege I was getting some very strange errors and finally managed to figure out the issue. The problem was ASUS AI Suite (http://www.overclock.net/t/1139980/how-to-disable-ai-suite-from-startup) I'm very happy it didn't fry the computer due to the utter stupidity it tried to override my fan controls (lower them) and over volt the processor to start up to over 95C...GRRR.

[Sarge104]

I'm still tweeking settings with the cpu but I'm pretty happy with the outcome so far. I started at 4.5ghz with 1.27v and had limited success, had to slowly up it to 1.3v and it seems to run prime95 like a champ now. Some screen shots of the torture tests...http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/140824/140824_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/141117/141117_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/141390/141390_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/141680/141680_original.jpg

Sorry for the huge pics, if I re-size them the dithering just renders them useless.

[DrPop]

AWESOME WORK Sarge! :-bd And the honest truth is, you could go up quite a bit from there on the clocks even if you ever want to - 40C range is nothing for that CPU. AMD's recommended max temp for your CPU is 62C and max socket temp of 68C. ;)

[Fire$torm]

Most excellent results Sarge! Congrats.

[Sarge104]

No sooner did I get where I wanted I'm back to square one....


I can do profiles on the BIOS to switch settings so I made a profile for the overclocked settings and made a profile for all the energy saving features turned on. Somewhere I must've made a goof because now windows will not boot at all. I make it all the way to the log in screen and it blue screens or sometimes doesn't even make it to the log in screeen. After reboot it suggests doing a Boot repair and says something along the effect that I've changed out hardware again. Considering I only changed BIOS settings I'm a little confused to say the least why this is happening.

Turned the computer off for the night and will try and boot it during lunch today and see what happens if I go back to the overclocked profile.

[DrPop]

Most likely a RAM error with the blue screen - is there a quick way to set your RAM profile back to AUTO or something like that in the BIOS? Make sure that the RAM speed is not going up with your O/C on the CPU! ;) Only change the CPU multiplier to start.

[Sarge104]

I was thinking along the same track with the ram settings. I've been adjusting them since I got the cpu up to the speed I wanted. The funny thing is I changed the clock on the cpu but kept the timings the same on the ram when I turned on the power saving features. I did decrease the power to the ram though which it brings it down to 1.35v instead of the 1.5 I had it at for the overclock settings. If that is the cause of my problems it will be a quick fix.

Just would be really surprised since I did not over clock the ram at all other then forcing the ram's own timings on itself and giving it the full charge.

[DrPop]

Oh yeah, it could easily be the voltage on the RAM, good thinking! :) I'd put it back at 1.5V, because that is the nominal voltage for DDR3. Some can run as low as 1.35V and some as high as 1.65V as their "normal" from the factory, but honestly I'd be surprised if it didn't need closer to 1.5V for 24/7 crunching. Depending on the project you're running (or things like Prime95) sometimes they really slam the data in and out of RAM to the CPU - this is very unlike normal people's computer usage which barely tasks your rig at all.
Guess that's just a long winded way of saying, even if it says 1.35V on the RAM itself, it probably needs at least 1.5V for crunching. I think I even run mine at 1.65V, but I have them O/Ced a bit. ;)

[Sarge104]

The tower is up and running :D.

Put the ram on auto and it clocked it way down below spec 3:10 9,9,9,24,33 at 668.9mhz :( and I need to check the power supplied and this evening do some tweeking to my profiles so I can have the energy efficiant profile run like it should...instead of blue screen :D

[DrPop]

Sarge, try putting it manually on 9-9-9-24 and 1600 manually. That's what it should run at. Give at least 1.5V as well.

Unless you go the more expensive one - 8-8-8-24?

[Sarge104]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148655&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL062513&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL062513-_-EMC-062513-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20148655-L020A

The memory that I purchased, and yes, it runs fine on the 8,8,8,24 settings at 1.5V. I just ran into the blue screen issue when I tried to drop the power for the power save profile. The ram specifies that it can run 1.35V but I don't think its stable enough at the 8,8,8, 24 settings to do so despite the packaging saying it does :(

[DrPop]

Sarge, please don't worry about the 1.35V, that's crazy low at those timings! ;) It will run perfect at 1.5V and that is some SWEET RAM you have, the timings are awesome. It won't hardly save you even a few cents per month to run the RAM at 1.35V vs 1.5V either - it's not like lowering the V on a GPU, which would save something worth worrying about. :P hehe...well, enjoy the awesome stuff you've got, should be able to put up some great numbers! I'll bet you can easily hit 4.7 to 5GHz with that CPU too. Wink, wink, nudge nudge. ;)

[Sarge104]

I want to do a challenge or two at the 4.5ghz first to see how the heat and stability handle before I start going higher. Just because I can do 40C stress testing for eight hours during the night doesn't mean it will be like that during the day when the house temp fluctuates. Good thing its getting cooler :D, one good thing about being so far up north.

[Sarge104]

So for kicks and giggles I booted up the GPU to full while the CPU was under full load, normally this isn't an issue but after work today I was surprised. My UPS decided to freak out and start alarming on overload... :eek: I know the batteries are fresh, just replaced them earlier this year, and I know the draw from the computer isn't that great even with the overclocking...

Finally after some trouble shooting (unplugging various things from and to the UPS), I turned to all knowing UTUBE! Turns out there is a fan that is malfunctioning in the UPS itself, so now I need to find a 24 volt two inch fan to replace the little rascle in there and I'll have my UPS back...lol


BTW running at 4.8GHZ at around 50C :D

[DrPop]

NICE! Crank it up man! :D hehe that's a great crunching OC certainly you did us all proud on this build, Sarge.

[Sarge104]

Christmas present to myself (http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386281693&sr=8-1&keywords=ups+900+volt), my old ups is only 540 volt (http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=Br900)and I was experiencing over voltage warnings when the Titan spun up for extended periods of time.

Any good Ideas on four pin case fans that are not 50 bucks each? I'm thinking two 140's up top to help the H100I and three 120s to replace the current three pin fans around the case.


****Didn't notice this before but I must've struck a good deal on cyber monday, that UPS was $160, I'm very glad I didn't wait to pay the regular price now at $323 youch!***

[Fire$torm]

Christmas present to myself (http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386281693&sr=8-1&keywords=ups+900+volt), my old ups is only 540 volt (http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=Br900)and I was experiencing over voltage warnings when the Titan spun up for extended periods of time.

Any good Ideas on four pin case fans that are not 50 bucks each? I'm thinking two 140's up top to help the H100I and three 120s to replace the current three pin fans around the case.

Fan selection is highly subjective, but to get things started, are you more interested in a quiet system or max/best cooling performance?

[Sarge104]

Fan selection is highly subjective, but to get things started, are you more interested in a quiet system or max/best cooling performance?

I'm really not looking for quiet fan, I'm really looking to see if anyone has any ideas on fans with high static pressure. I would love to stick a bunch of 90cfm fans on the case but if they can't push enough air in/out of the case its not worth it.

I'm still trying to get some dead spots figured out, with all the fans pushing the gpu is nice and cool but the top of the case where the water cooler is is warm. With the fans pulling air the gpu seems to really heat up. Currently have the bottom fans and water cooling fans pushing with the side and rear fans pulling to try and get rid of the dead spots but now I'm running into the flow issue.

[John P. Myers]

http://www.setiusa.us/showthread.php?4144-Best-fans-now&highlight=fans

[Sarge104]

http://www.setiusa.us/showthread.php?4144-Best-fans-now&highlight=fans
Thanks for the link, looks like the 140's in the Xingmatek might do for top of the case. I just need to figure out what to put in the 120 slots now. Right now the cfm of the side, front, and rear fans is around 60 so I'm debating if I should keep a couple of that type for exhaust purposes.

[Fire$torm]

I have two other fan options, in two sizes, for radiators and intake.

120mm Fans

Silverstone Air Penetrator AP121-L series (Link (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998&IsNodeId=1&srchInDesc=AP121-L&page=1&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20))
Bearing Type: Fluid Dynamic
RPM: 1500 RPM
Air Flow: 35.36 CFM
Static Pressure: 1.71mm/H2O
Air Speed: 2.5m/s (measured at fan exit)
Effective Airflow Range: 1 Meter
Noise Level: 22.4 dBA
Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Start Voltage: 5V DC
Rated Current: Max 0.33A (Actual) 0.09A
Rated Power: Max 3.96W (Actual)1.56W

Akasa Viper 120mm (Link (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11111/))
Fan speed: 600 -1900 RPM
Max airflow: 83.63 CFM (141.75 m3/h)
Max static air pressure: 2.98 mm H2O
Noise level: 6.9 -28.9 dB(A)
Current rating: 0.17A
Voltage rating: 12V DC
Bearing: HDB (Hydro Dynamic)
Fan life expectancy: 50,000 hours
Connector: 4pin PWM

140mm Fans

Silverstone Air Penetrator AP141(Link (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835220046&Tpk=air%20penetrator))
Fan Size: 139mm
Bearing Type: Fluid Dynamic
RPM: 1500 rpm@12V / 1000 rpm@7V / 700 rpm@5V
Air Flow: 28.26 CFM (5V) / 41.09 CFM (7V) / 64.34 CFM (12V)
Static Pressure: 0.39 mmH2O(5V) / 0.73 mmH2O(7V) / 1.55 mmH2O(12V)
Air Speed: 1m/s(5V)/ 1.5m/s(7V)/ 2.3m/s(12V)
Effective Airflow Range: 1 meter@5V / 1.2 meter@7V / 2 meter@12V
Noise Level: 18 dBA (5V) / 20.9 dBA (7V) / 30.1 dBA (12V)
Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Start Voltage: 5V DC
Rated Current: Max 0.22A (Actual) 0.2A
Rated Power: Max 2.64W (Actual)2.4W

Akasa Viper 140 (Link (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13819/fan-901))
Fan speed: 600 -1600 RPM
Max airflow: 110.61 CFM (141.75 m3/h)
Max static air pressure: 3.12 mm H2O
Noise level: 12.5-26.01 dB(A)
Voltage rating: 12V DC
Bearing: HDB (Hydro Dynamic)
Fan life expectancy: 50,000 hours
Connector: 4pin PWM

[Sarge104]

I have two other fan options, in two sizes, for radiators and intake.



Appreciate the info, the akasa looks like it is worth looking into for my 120mm slots. Probably have to wait after the holiday is over, the g/f seems intent to invite most the family over so need to stock up on the essentials...heheh.

[Fire$torm]

Appreciate the info, the akasa looks like it is worth looking into for my 120mm slots. Probably have to wait after the holiday is over, the g/f seems intent to invite most the family over so need to stock up on the essentials...heheh.

Kool. One reason I like the Akasa Viper series is that they can push a ton of air at decent sound levels. So if your MB has proper fan speed management, you can dial down the Viper's RPM to "average fan" levels, where it will generate less then "average fan" noise levels.

Side Note: I do not recommend using any high end fan on Corsair AIO coolers having integrated fan controllers. From personal experience, if the controller goes bad, it will take the fans with it. Lost 2 Viper 140s that way... :((

[Sarge104]

Side Note: I do not recommend using any high end fan on Corsair AIO coolers having integrated fan controllers. From personal experience, if the controller goes bad, it will take the fans with it. Lost 2 Viper 140s that way... :((

The exhaust fans will be hooked up to the mother board, I've got an independent fan controller I can use in a pinch. Thanks for the warning about the fan controller though, I was intending to hook the 140s to my H100i....oops.

[Sarge104]

So I've been having errors recently with my Astroid WU's, doing a bit of investigating I found that my CPU power was too low and bumped it up a bit(1.5v which the computer has leeway to take down to 1.42v) to solve the issue. My digging also found that my North Bridge power is set very low (1.1v I believe, can't remember now), I bumped it to the yellow (1.3v) to help with communication between the chip and memory. My question is there anything North Bridge related I should look at to help improve stability.

[Sarge104]

Scored some 2k RPM fans (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030DL37I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the case and am in the process of getting them situated for ideal air flow. Currently the H100I is at the top of the case with one of the fans blowing in from the top of the back panel. I was under the belief that this would set up a circulating motion where the second fan at the lower front of the case would provide enough force to get the air to flow around the TITAN where the third fan is blowing in from the side of the case to mix cold air with the air from up top. The fourth and final fan is on the rear exhausting any extra the TITAN does not pick up and keeping air flowing over the power supply.

Hopefully any who have managed to read through that have a clear idea of what is supposed to be going on. My problem is there seems to still be a dead spot of air that is causing the CPU temperature to climb. With my old fan set up I had one less and the only difference was I believe the top rear fan and the side fan where exhausting air, instead of both providing positive pressure. I can turn both around but I'm still not sure why I'm jumping almost 10-14C pumping cool air into the case?

I'm under the impression that with the only exhaust being in the lower back it is causing heat to feed back to the upper back fan. I've provided nearly 2 feet of clearance between the tower and the wall so the exhausted air should be shoved far enough away to prevent this. If anyone can offer some advice on a more effective set up I would appreciate it.

Future upgrades still involve two 140mm fans for the top to help the H100I do its job.

[Fire$torm]

I may be wrong but it sounds like you have negative case pressure, somehow you have more air leaving the case then entering.

The way I maintain positive pressure:
A) All intake fans have higher CFM rating then exhaust fans, or total intake CFM is 15%~25% higher then total exhaust CFM.
B) When using fan speed controller, Like SpeedFan, intake fans are set to a higher idle and top speed then exhaust fans.
C) Minimize the number of exhaust fans and use ventilated expansion slot cover plates (Like These (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999224)) to help maintain good air flow. These slot covers will promote airflow across any GPUs in the case.

[Sarge104]

I may be wrong but it sounds like you have negative case pressure, somehow you have more air leaving the case then entering.

This is where I was confused as well. The H100I's two fans, and three of the other 120mm are all set to full bore blow into the case. Only one 120mm fan on the lower bottom is exhaust (Plus the TITAN, which is not in use ATM...Crime against humanity, I know, I know ;) ) . I figured with all those fans blowing cold air in it would be a snap to keep temperatures down. All of the Fans are PWM controlled, the H100I with its software and the 120mm's are BIOS controlled, so I could just down clock that exhaust fan and see what happens.

[Fire$torm]

This is where I was confused as well. The H100I's two fans, and three of the other 120mm are all set to full bore blow into the case. Only one 120mm fan on the lower bottom is exhaust (Plus the TITAN, which is not in use ATM...Crime against humanity, I know, I know ;) ) . I figured with all those fans blowing cold air in it would be a snap to keep temperatures down. All of the Fans are PWM controlled, the H100I with its software and the 120mm's are BIOS controlled, so I could just down clock that exhaust fan and see what happens.

I see. For all my water cooled boxes (custom or AIO) I always have the radiator fans exhausting air. I never use them for intake.

[Sarge104]

I see. For all my water cooled boxes (custom or AIO) I always have the radiator fans exhausting air. I never use them for intake.

The TITAN runs very warm and I was concerned that the heat rising from that would compromise the top mounted radiator. With the FX-8350 running warm already I don't want to compound the problem when both are active..

[Sarge104]

Just to be clear on what temps I'm expecting from what is going on. On idle the 8350 is normally 15-20C even when overclocked. The chip is currently overclocked to 4.8ghz and I normally see temps within 45-50C(old fan set up). The temps currently are 55-58C. I've got the H100I software set to cut the power after 60C due to the fact I'm not too trusting of the sensors in the first place and want a safe shut down rather then a class charlie fire shut down.

I realize that with warmer temps I would see a rise but I've been keeping the house temp down to 62F as its been all winter and I have made sure to keep the sun-ward window shaded as well to keep that from being an issue.

[MindCrime]

I see. For all my water cooled boxes (custom or AIO) I always have the radiator fans exhausting air. I never use them for intake.

I've been contemplating repositioning my h100 radiator fans as pull rather than push. I don't have the room for push and pull though, do you or anyone else have personal experience with seeing better performance in the h100 series in pull than push?

[MindCrime]

Sarge I want to share my thoughts on how I cooled my latest build to see if it helps you. I'm using an h100 which is physically pretty much the same as your h100i. I only use two 120mm fans on the h100 radiator.

I don't like dust, it clogs things up and makes things run hotter and thus less efficient. My theory on dust is that if I have a positive pressure in the case dust is less inclined to reside in it. How do I get a positive pressure? Well I have all my fans blowing into the case with the exception of the h100, the gpu, and the power supply (pulls from bottom exhausts out back). The theory is that all the major heat producers have their own exhausts and if i can push more air into the case than the GPU and h100 exhaust out I'll have a positive pressure that will supply the GPU and CPU with near ambient room temp air.

Cable management can also play a big part in your air cooling. I'm glad I spent time thinking out my wiring so they are neatly tucked and tied...thank god for fully modular power supplies. Like I said i have all my case fans blowing in, so my components get cool air, not the hot exhaust of another component. And if I'm doing it right the extra pressure from all those fans (4x140mm, 1x120mm) will be forced out through the h100 radiator.

All that said, it's going to take A LOT more than what you got to be able to run your cpu at 100% under 60c (where you're throttling). I reserve a core or 2 for GPU apps (i.e. moowrapper requires a full core plus gpu) but i have my igpu hd4000 running 100% and with my h100 on medium setting i can do loads from 50-60 on an ivybridge 3570k but if I ran some 100% cpu stuff, primegrid avx it could be 75c...and thats fine for the cpu. If it's a heat thing 60c on your cpu is far less power than 60c on your gpu...
That titan is leaps and bounds beyond that ...kaveri

[zombie67]

Modern CPUs self-throttle. No need to worry about damaging them due to heat.

[Fire$torm]

I've been contemplating repositioning my h100 radiator fans as pull rather than push. I don't have the room for push and pull though, do you or anyone else have personal experience with seeing better performance in the h100 series in pull than push?

For most rads, pull works just as will as push. The exception, rads with a high fin density.

When rad fans are used to exhaust case air, as long as you have positive case pressure, then a pull config will work without issue.

[Sarge104]

Thanks for the ideas guys, I'm really angry that I'm having so many issues right before the Pentathlon... but when else should I have issues right...lol. I've fiddled with the new fans I've installed but I've not had much luck, so tomorrow after work I'll try switching out the fans on the H100I to push instead and try that overclocked.

I will have to say my case is near silent when its not working which is kinda scary...lol. I don't expect it to be silent that much during the Pentathlon though...:D

[John P. Myers]

+1 to F$. Rads should always exhaust, otherwise you pull hot air into the case which warms up everything else. Defeats the purpose. And like F$ said, it's better to have more air being pulled in your case than blowing out. Air under pressure inside the case cools more effectively than standard or negative air pressure. Positive air pressure also helps keep dust out of your system. Negative draws it in.

[Sarge104]

+1 to F$. Rads should always exhaust, otherwise you pull hot air into the case which warms up everything else. Defeats the purpose. And like F$ said, it's better to have more air being pulled in your case than blowing out. Air under pressure inside the case cools more effectively than standard or negative air pressure. Positive air pressure also helps keep dust out of your system. Negative draws it in.

Emphasis mine, Unfortunately the issue I will have when I turn the fans on the radiator to exhaust is just that, I will have three fans exhausting while only three fans are providing pressure. Either I have to place another hole in the plexiglass side and mount my other exhaust fan there blowing in or mount the radiator on the outside of the case. As it stands my only exhaust fan is placed on the outside of the case and is partially over the TITAN's exhaust, If I turn it around it would compromise the GPU cooling.

Edit:Thinking on it the fans on the H100I are 2700RPM, so having them on exhaust would almost guarantee negative pressure since my three other fans are only pushing air at 2000RPM. Might have to do a bit of case modding to move that other exhaust fan.

[John P. Myers]

Fan RPM and CFM are not direclty related. It's easy to find 2 fans running at the exact same RPM with vastly different airflows. Also fans meant for use on rads often have lower CFM because they're made for higher static pressure than regular case fans.

For example:
2000 RPM @ 69 CFM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060
2000 RPM @ 110 CFM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835132025

If either fan were attached to a rad, even if they were meant for rads, the rated airflow is reduced significantly since any fan's airflow rating is tested in open air.

[Sarge104]

Thanks again for all the help you guys have been giving. I had a chance to break open the case during lunch and switched the fans on the H100I to push. I was under the impression with high static pressure that the fans had coupled with their high rpm that they would provide a negative pressure environment. I was under the belief that pulling cool air from outside the case would provide better cooling then using the air provided from the other fans inside.

The comments provided in this topic really helped in that regard, I only had a chance to monitor the case temps for a few mins before I left but they seemed to be staying steady at 46-47C. This is a great improvement of the near 60C temps I was seeing before with the H100I being set to pull air in.

I still need to spin up the TITAN and see what the temps are but I need to get my rule set up working on the firewall. Will do some testing tonight and see if any bleed-through compromises the H110I.

Edit: Just to be comparing apples to apples, this testing is with the fx8350 overclocked to 4.8 and running on all cores. Tonight I will take a core to run the gpu.

[Sarge104]

Took one core for the GPU over the night and temps on the H100I stayed at 50C with the TITAN fully engaged. The new fans are feeding the TITAN excellently, temps rarely went above 58C. So far very happy with the new fans.

[DrPop]

Took one core for the GPU over the night and temps on the H100I stayed at 50C with the TITAN fully engaged. The new fans are feeding the TITAN excellently, temps rarely went above 58C. So far very happy with the new fans.

What a relief! Go Sarge GO! :D

[Sarge104]

After a couple days of poking a prodding at the BIOS I finally got the tower back to 4.8 GHz stable. I've been having issues using the CPU Clock multiplier so I kept that at 20 while I increased the clock using the CPU/NB Freq. Surprisingly I've gotten higher clocks with a little less power being put to the chip(1.46V). Granted this was during a ten minute stress with Prime 95 using the base cpu torture and cpu/ram torture tests.

The bad news is I believe my 1000watt power supply is starting to show its age. I first noticed issues with my old over clock settings using the higher 1.5V and aggressive power management. It seems that even if I get the tower to post and start to run tests in windows I would have issues with stability throughout the entire process. I know it may be from having the power up a little high but I've not had as much issues as I've ran into recently. The power supply has served for over five years.

[Sarge104]

Results of tonights labors...

Started out with the "stable" overclock that I had obtained via CPU/NB:
4.8GHZ (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/156727/156727_original.jpg)

Of course I'm not happy unless I get that "little bit more", or break things...
4.9GHz? (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/157097/157097_original.jpg)

So my question is, during my testing I noticed the multiplier on the CPU-Z go to 7 and the Clock speed show around 1.7 GHz, is this a sign of instability or something else? Will update with a pic of what is going on in a few mins...

Quick test that reproduced the result, is this (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge104/1100638/157279/157279_original.jpg) a result of instability or something else? During my testing temperatures stayed well within normal margins and the chip is allowed to pull up to 1.5v if needed. The times I've been testing and this happens the clock will bounce from 7-20.

[Sarge104]

Greetings Team,

Sorry for the communications blackout I've been under. Long story short bad things happened, I got over them, and I'm back and looking to assist once more. My current set up is a tower I built back in 2010 with a few upgrades over the years. I'm looking into building a new tower and finally getting the other mid and mini towers up and crunching. To that end I'm looking for advice on my build to see if there is anything I'm missing. Thank you in advance for your help.


Case 1 x Thermaltake Overseer Full Tower Gaming Case-Black
LED Fan Lighting 1 x 3x [RGB] Azza Hurricane 120mm RGB LED Fan-
Internal Expansion 1 x [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Hub + ASUS Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter-
Processor 1 x AMD Ryzen 7 1800X Processor (8x 3.6GHZ/16MB L3 Cache)-
Processor Cooling 1 x NZXT Kraken X42 140mm Liquid CPU Cooler-[ryzen]
Memory 1 x 32 GB [16 GB x2] DDR4-2400 Memory Module-Corsair or Major Brand
Video Card 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 - 8GB - EVGA Hybrid FTW (All-in-One Water Cool; VR Ready)-
Motherboard 1 x MSI X370 XPOWER Gaming Titanium -- Mystic Light RGB, 3x PCIe x16, 1x USB 3.1 Gen2, 4x USB 3.1 Gen1, 3x USB 2.0-
Power Supply 1 x 1200 Watt - Corsair AX1200i - 80 PLUS Platinum Full Modular-
M.2/PCI-E SSD Card 1 x 500GB Samsung 960 EVO M.2 PCIe NVME SSD -- Read: 3200MB/s; Write: 1900MB/s-
Primary Hard Drive 1 x 1 TB Hard Drive -- 32MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s-includes [FREE] 240GB Kingston A400 SATA-3 SSD
Data Hard Drive 1 x 1 TB WD Blue Hard Drive -- 64MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s-Single Drive
Optical Drive 1 x LG 14x Blu-ray Rewriter, DVD Rewriter Combo Drive-Black
2nd Optical Drive 1 x None-
Media Card Reader / Writer 1 x 12-In-1 Internal Media Card Reader/Writer-Black
Meter Display 1 x Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB LCD 6 Channel Fan Controller-
Sound Card 1 x Creative Sound Blaster Audigy Rx [PCIE] -- 7.1 Channels, 192kHz/24-bit, 106 dB SNR-
Network Card 1 x Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)-
USB Expansion Card 1 x None-
Operating System 1 x Windows 10 Pro-(64-bit)

[John P. Myers]

Welcome back!

[Mumps]

Greetings Team,

Sorry for the communications blackout I've been under. Long story short bad things happened, I got over them, and I'm back and looking to assist once more. My current set up is a tower I built back in 2010 with a few upgrades over the years. I'm looking into building a new tower and finally getting the other mid and mini towers up and crunching. To that end I'm looking for advice on my build to see if there is anything I'm missing. Thank you in advance for your help.

Looks like that MoBo supports up to 3200 speed DDR4. Any reason you went slower? And it's Dual Channel with 4 slots. Populating all 4 slots not an option?

For the drives, it does support RAID, so, as long as you're getting that free 240 GB SSD, use that for the primary drive and match that 1TB to do a RAID1 config, right?

[Sarge104]

Welcome back!


Looks like that MoBo supports up to 3200 speed DDR4. Any reason you went slower? And it's Dual Channel with 4 slots. Populating all 4 slots not an option?

For the drives, it does support RAID, so, as long as you're getting that free 240 GB SSD, use that for the primary drive and match that 1TB to do a RAID1 config, right?

John, thanks. Mumps, the 3.2k memory was not an option and continues not to be. I can call and see if I the build center can do it before I place the order though. As for the Raid set up I have to admit I do not have much experience at all with Raid configurations but it's pretty cheap to do the raid 1 or 0 config. ATT 57 bucks. I must have passed the point of the rebate, no more free SSD, I have a 500GB SSD with the build though.

[Sarge104]

Order has been placed, should have the tower within a week depending on how fast they build it.


Case 1 x Thermaltake Overseer Full Tower Gaming Case - Black
LED Fan Lighting 1 x 3x [RGB] Azza Hurricane 120mm RGB LED Fan
1 x [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Hub + ASUS Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter
Processor 1 x AMD Ryzen 7 1800X Processor (8x 3.6GHZ/16MB L3 Cache)
Processor Cooling 1 x NZXT Kraken X62 280mm Liquid CPU Cooler - [Ryzen]
Memory 1 x 32 GB [16 GB x2] DDR4-2400 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand
Video Card 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 - 8GB - EVGA Hybrid FTW (All-in-One Water Cool; VR Ready)
SLI Bridge 1 x NVIDIA SLI Bridge High Bandwidth for GTX 10 Series (2-Way SLI)
Motherboard 1 x MSI X370 XPOWER Gaming Titanium -- Mystic Light RGB, 3x PCIe x16, 1x USB 3.1 Gen2, 4x USB 3.1 Gen1, 3x USB 2.0
Power Supply 1 x 1200 Watt - Corsair AX1200i - 80 PLUS Platinum Full Modular
M.2/PCI-E SSD Card 1 x 500GB Samsung 960 EVO M.2 PCIe NVME SSD -- Read: 3200MB/s; Write: 1900MB/s
Primary Hard Drive 1 x 1 TB Hard Drive -- 32MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive
Data Hard Drive 1 x 1 TB WD Blue Hard Drive -- 64MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive
Optical Drive 1 x LG 16x Blu-ray Rewriter, DVD Rewriter Combo Drive - Black
Media Card Reader / Writer 1 x 12-In-1 Internal Media Card Reader/Writer - Black
Sound Card 1 x Creative Sound Blaster Audigy Rx [PCIE] -- 7.1 Channels, 192kHz/24-bit, 106 dB SNR
Network Card 1 x Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)
Operating System 1 x Windows 10 Pro - (64-bit)
Keyboard 1 x Tt eSPORTS Commander Gaming Mouse & Keyboard Combo - Tactile Plunger Switches; Adjustable blue backlighting

[DrPop]

Very sweet setup, Sarge, congrats on the new rig! :cool:

[Sarge104]

Very sweet setup, Sarge, congrats on the new rig! :cool:

Thanks DrPop! I had to call them right after I ordered of course, made the change to single hard drive to two in a Raid 0 capacity. Asked the build center if they had access to 3.2k memory but they didn't have any yet. Build should be done in five days and I'll receive it shortly after.

[Mumps]

If you want any protection, you better ask for RAID 1. RAID 0 just combines multiple drive capacities to effectively give you a larger drive. But if you lose one drive, you lose everything on both drives... RAID 1 requires matching drives and they both end up with copies of the content, so if one dies, the other still has all your stuff.

http://www.diffen.com/difference/RAID_0_vs_RAID_1


RAID (redundant array of independent disks) is a storage technology that combines multiple disk drive components into a single logical unit so it behaves as one drive when connected to any other hardware. RAID 1 offers redundancy through mirroring, i.e., data is written identically to two drives. RAID 0 offers no redundancy and instead uses striping, i.e., data is split across all the drives. This means RAID 0 offers no fault tolerance; if any of the constituent drives fails, the RAID unit fails.

[Mumps]

If you want any protection, you better ask for RAID 1. RAID 0 just combines multiple drive capacities to effectively give you a larger drive. But if you lose one drive, you lose everything on both drives... RAID 1 requires matching drives and they both end up with copies of the content, so if one dies, the other still has all your stuff.

http://www.diffen.com/difference/RAID_0_vs_RAID_1


RAID (redundant array of independent disks) is a storage technology that combines multiple disk drive components into a single logical unit so it behaves as one drive when connected to any other hardware. RAID 1 offers redundancy through mirroring, i.e., data is written identically to two drives. RAID 0 offers no redundancy and instead uses striping, i.e., data is split across all the drives. This means RAID 0 offers no fault tolerance; if any of the constituent drives fails, the RAID unit fails.

[Sarge104]

Tower arrived today! Made a terrible unboxing video...lol. Will have to wait till next week to do my first boot up due to having to be out of town for my birthday this weekend. Should have both the video and some testing done next week though and will post info then.

[Sarge104]

New tower is up and running after doing some updates. I do not have everything installed just yet but put it to work on NFS for the time being so I can run some WU's through it and see what I need to tweek. Will be leaving today and will be back on Tuesday to celebrate my birthday...:D

[Sarge104]

Did some burn in last week to make sure everything was alright with the coolers. GPU is running like a champ but my cpu cooler is causing me concern. Ran at 50%(evidently AMD hyper-threading is considered extra cores) last week on POGS and temps held at 153F/67C. Currently running at 25% with asteroids and my temps are still at 172F/78C. House temp has been consistent at 72F. The only change I can think of is I went in and hand tightened the cooler screws...Even switching out some of the LED fans with my old cooler master fans has not had any effect.

I will finish my current batch of WU's and do a tear-down to see if maybe the grease between the cooler and CPU flashed off or slide down...Ah, the joys of a new build. When i received the computer I noticed they put the fans on top of my CPU cooler. I had good luck with the fans under the cooler on my H100I so I may switch that during the tear down.

[Sarge104]

2756
Current temps

[John P. Myers]

CPU temp seems a bit high. Is the kraken mounted right or is the ryzen overvolted or something?

[John P. Myers]

Ah nvm. I see it intentionally overreports temps by 20C to trick the cooling fans into ramping up sooner. You're fine :)

[Sarge104]

Ah nvm. I see it intentionally overreports temps by 20C to trick the cooling fans into ramping up sooner. You're fine :)

I already looked into the over reporting, my concern is the temps where 20F lower last week then this week. I doubt Astroids would cause more heat then POG's or am I mistaken? I intend to do a teardown tommorrow since it started going up in temp with only 4 cores enabled tonight. Will update with any findings...

Currently uploading my unboxing of the new rig, will post a link when its ready to view!

[Bryan]

If you are running Asteroids AVX WU (most likely) then YES, there will be more heat! My Intel Xeon machines downclock 15% when running AVX to limit the heat buildup.

EDIT: you will see the same thing on PG and SRbase since they issue AVX 2.0 WU to the newer CPUs.

[John P. Myers]

It overreports by 20C, meaning 36F. And as Bryan said, Asteroids does run warmer than POGS. Seems like everything is ok

[Sarge104]

If you are running Asteroids AVX WU (most likely) then YES, there will be more heat! My Intel Xeon machines downclock 15% when running AVX to limit the heat buildup.
EDIT: you will see the same thing on PG and SRbase since they issue AVX 2.0 WU to the newer CPUs.

Thanks Bryan, I thought I remembered one project causing me issues but I had forgotten which one it was. Will still do a check tomorrow but tonight I'll continue to monitor temps with a 10C increase on my 80C warning that I had set up. I was hoping the Kraken would easily keep up with my cpu temps but it's self overclocking seems to be a bit too powerful for it.

Video is currently uploading, encoding will most likely take most of the night but will post a link in the morning after I confirm its up.

[Bryan]

Try moving over to CSG and run it full bore to get a comparison of temps. CSG does not use AVX. AVX really heats up the processor but on most (not all) projects it makes a huge difference. I wouldn't tear things apart until you've run another project or 2 and get a baseline.

If you look at the WU running on Asteroids it will tell you whether or not it is using AVX ... it's shown at the end of the WU name.

If your machine is running AVX and the temps are within the normal limits then you are good to go. They will never get any hotter than when running the AVX/FMA3 instruction set.

[Sarge104]

If you look at the WU running on Asteroids it will tell you whether or not it is using AVX ... it's shown at the end of the WU name.
If your machine is running AVX and the temps are within the normal limits then you are good to go. They will never get any hotter than when running the AVX/FMA3 instruction set.

102.10 AVX, Man, you are just trying to stop me from poking at the innards ;). I know I should let it be but having someone else do the build, even if they are professional builders, not knowing how much paste they used, where the hell they routed cords, and why they put certain components this way instead of that. It gets to me...lol. I'll finish up the WU's I have tonight and let it chew on something else in the morning before I do a teardown.

[Bryan]

I can't argue with your logic =))

[Sarge104]

The unboxing video is currently up and available for viewing...high production values not included ;P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYAsT6dQNis

[Sarge104]

27602761

After switching to pogs, lol, good to see that my tweeking earlier actually made a difference. Down from 153F!

[John P. Myers]

There's a CAM update available that is supposed to fix Ryzen temp reporting.

[Sarge104]

There's a CAM update available that is supposed to fix Ryzen temp reporting.

Thanks! I'm wondering why it didn't prompt me to do the upgrade already. Now I can adjust my temp warnings back down to "normal". Thanks John!