You can do it!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk
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You can do it!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk
Thanks for the encouragement, picked up the parts yesterday after finally convincing myself I could do it. It took four hours and about 8-16 try's installing and uninstalling the motherboard to route wires but all the equipment was installed. I was afraid to turn on the computer at first and finally flicked the power button...No power, no nothing....Then I turned on the PSU and all the equipment came back up :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by John P. Myers
Now I just have to repair Vista and the little monster should really be alive and kicking :D
=)) =))Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
Don't worry Sarge, you are not the only one for I did the same thing two weeks ago. One day I was looking at this machine (I have no side covers installed on the case and in deed some do not have a case at all) when right in front of me there was a sudden faint explosion sound followed with a spark of flame coming from the PSU including the horrible smell that is or will be familiar to some when a capacitor explodes. I took the machine to my work bench where I had a known working PSU that I use for test purposes. I cleaned up the MB and all the fans etc and turned on the power on the PSU and the machine. Nothing. My first reaction was that the MB was taken down with the sudden surge of power from the old PSU. I went away dismayed that I not only have to by a new MB and PSU but there could be a damage done to the CPU also. I resigned to the fact that I lost one machine as I can not afford any parts at the moment. A few days later, I needed to use my Electric Power Drill and when I plugged it in the power socket, I noticed that there was no lead in there for it should still have the PSU lead in that socket. Don't laugh, I wasn't at the time, but than again the machine is back up and running.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
Quick update: Trouble shooting the fact that Windows would not boot uncovered a broken Sata end going into the Primary Hard Drive. Quick call found a new connecter but was unable to bring Windows up still. A few tries with the recovery disk uncovered my worst fear, due to the hardware change the operating system thought I was hijacking the OS.
Luckily when I did a reinstall it put all the old files in an archive so all my bookmarks, vacation pictures, programs are still avalible. Now I'm in hour three of updates...updates...and more updates....:D
Hey Sarge, I'm happy to hear the data recovery was successful. I'd like to offer a bit of advice that has saved me countless hours when Windows gets toasted.
And it goes like this...
Separate Windows OS from your personal/critical data by partitioning your HDD/SSD.
1st partition:
For any flavor of Windows 7, a 40GB~50GB primary partition will be more then adequate. Along with the OS in this partition, you can install all your utility programs like your favorite Anti-Virus, disk maintenance, GPU/CPU OverClocking, etc..
2nd partition:
The remaining HDD space is allocated to this partition and all your big applications (ie: apps that hog tons of of your HDD space like M$ Office). Your favorite game programs like Call of Duty: Black Ops. Personal data like family pics. The 20-page report your boss wanted submitted last Tuesday, etc...
I would also suggest creating separate folders for all the major types programs/data stored on the 2nd partition. Setting up the partition this way also makes it easier to backup data since it will (as in should) be easier to find.
Drive D: (2nd Partition)
D:\Applications
D:\Documents
D:\Games
D:\Pictures
D:\Music
You get the idea..
And one last thing to consider, move all your Windows special My <Whatever> folders to the 2nd partition therefore having all the benefits described above.
If your interested check out this How-To ---> http://headstrongfarm.hubpages.com/h...g_My_Documents
F$
P.S. All the above will not save your data if your HDD gives up the ghost. Always backup your important files. For some good backup tips check out this Tekzilla show: World Backup Day Special (Link)
Currently doing a slightly less efficient method of just using separate HHD's for that very purpose. I had a hard drive go out taking out everything except what I had burned to CD back in the day. So I'm big with separation of data.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire$torm
My problem isn't with losing the personal stuff, its updating windows...ugh, spent over 6hr's just with the updates alone...Hate Vista for all the updates/bloat but it's stable. In the future I might upgrade to 7 or if they ever get 8 right but right now I'm just sticking with what I've got disks and keys for :D
Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I should break in the Titan on? It looks nice and all but I'd like to do some testing :D
ya win 8 is a pita as far as im concerned errors daily and have to constantly relog into everything. hey congrats for getting the box up and running!
Knock knock. If ya want to go Win7 and extend the trial period, use infinite ReArm. The best utility I've found for that is Trilogy v2.8. It works on all versions of Win7.
Trilogy v2.8 can be had (Here)
PM me for more info.
Got boinc up and running and was setting up Corsair link to monitor temps, it has a handy feature to shut down the computer if the temps get too high and I was showing the girlfriend the features. She asked why I was running the temps in C and what the temp was in F so I went to options and changed the temp settings...Needless to say I didn't put any delay in shutdown and the computer thought I was way over spec on temps since the program doesn't convert the temps you put in the settings automatically....Shut down the computer immediately LOL!
Running at 31C at full load on both SETI and PrimeGrid programs...I wish I could separate a processor for the gpu since I've not tested it out but I will push the processor today on the factory settings then I'll do a gpu burn tomorrow :D
UPDATE: Came back home this evening and found that the max temp for the CPU hit around 40C during the hottest part of the day (85F). The gpu had some light work that brought it up to 70C but I'm hoping that some tweaks with the fan settings will allow for cooler temps tomorrow :D
Those are great temps! Awesome addition to the fleet. :) Thanks Sarge!
These are stock settings for the time being, after the primegrid challenge I will start to try some over clocking :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DrPop
Started out stock for the Primegrid challenge, but I was five hours late due to short lunch and getting off late from work. Still off to a good start right behind one other SetiUsa member and we are cranking the WU's. I turned up the heat by adding .3ghz to the processor and temps have stayed at 35C...the computer shut down at first from what I'm assuming was over heat, found that Corsair had the water cooling fans fixed speed, turned them to max and the temps have stayed at 35C :D. We'll have fun and kick some Primegrid WU arse!
Sargies current tower settings CPU/GPU
So quick Q, why can't I upload a 128kb picture file? Is it a matter of picture size or dimensions(the picture is pretty huge, I can re-size it)? Or just board permissions?
Not sure but I'll take a look. Probably something messed up with user permissions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
I have that problem too. And sometimes my attachments don't show at all but instead get a link that has to be clicked. Very annoyingQuote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4 beta
Can you try it again and let me know?Quote:
Originally Posted by John P. Myers
Attachment 1479Attachment 1478
Old set up and new set up after four hours of in and out of the mother board...LOL, I'm definitely not a wire guru :D
Edit: It may have been a picture dimension issue for me...I down sized these pics and it took them.
Quick update, during the last challege I was getting some very strange errors and finally managed to figure out the issue. The problem was ASUS AI Suite I'm very happy it didn't fry the computer due to the utter stupidity it tried to override my fan controls (lower them) and over volt the processor to start up to over 95C...GRRR.
I'm still tweeking settings with the cpu but I'm pretty happy with the outcome so far. I started at 4.5ghz with 1.27v and had limited success, had to slowly up it to 1.3v and it seems to run prime95 like a champ now. Some screen shots of the torture tests...http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge...4_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge...7_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge...0_original.jpghttp://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sarge...0_original.jpg
Sorry for the huge pics, if I re-size them the dithering just renders them useless.
AWESOME WORK Sarge! :-bd And the honest truth is, you could go up quite a bit from there on the clocks even if you ever want to - 40C range is nothing for that CPU. AMD's recommended max temp for your CPU is 62C and max socket temp of 68C. ;)
Most excellent results Sarge! Congrats.
No sooner did I get where I wanted I'm back to square one....
I can do profiles on the BIOS to switch settings so I made a profile for the overclocked settings and made a profile for all the energy saving features turned on. Somewhere I must've made a goof because now windows will not boot at all. I make it all the way to the log in screen and it blue screens or sometimes doesn't even make it to the log in screeen. After reboot it suggests doing a Boot repair and says something along the effect that I've changed out hardware again. Considering I only changed BIOS settings I'm a little confused to say the least why this is happening.
Turned the computer off for the night and will try and boot it during lunch today and see what happens if I go back to the overclocked profile.
Most likely a RAM error with the blue screen - is there a quick way to set your RAM profile back to AUTO or something like that in the BIOS? Make sure that the RAM speed is not going up with your O/C on the CPU! ;) Only change the CPU multiplier to start.
I was thinking along the same track with the ram settings. I've been adjusting them since I got the cpu up to the speed I wanted. The funny thing is I changed the clock on the cpu but kept the timings the same on the ram when I turned on the power saving features. I did decrease the power to the ram though which it brings it down to 1.35v instead of the 1.5 I had it at for the overclock settings. If that is the cause of my problems it will be a quick fix.
Just would be really surprised since I did not over clock the ram at all other then forcing the ram's own timings on itself and giving it the full charge.
Oh yeah, it could easily be the voltage on the RAM, good thinking! :) I'd put it back at 1.5V, because that is the nominal voltage for DDR3. Some can run as low as 1.35V and some as high as 1.65V as their "normal" from the factory, but honestly I'd be surprised if it didn't need closer to 1.5V for 24/7 crunching. Depending on the project you're running (or things like Prime95) sometimes they really slam the data in and out of RAM to the CPU - this is very unlike normal people's computer usage which barely tasks your rig at all.
Guess that's just a long winded way of saying, even if it says 1.35V on the RAM itself, it probably needs at least 1.5V for crunching. I think I even run mine at 1.65V, but I have them O/Ced a bit. ;)
The tower is up and running :D.
Put the ram on auto and it clocked it way down below spec 3:10 9,9,9,24,33 at 668.9mhz :( and I need to check the power supplied and this evening do some tweeking to my profiles so I can have the energy efficiant profile run like it should...instead of blue screen :D
Sarge, try putting it manually on 9-9-9-24 and 1600 manually. That's what it should run at. Give at least 1.5V as well.
Unless you go the more expensive one - 8-8-8-24?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20148655-L020A
The memory that I purchased, and yes, it runs fine on the 8,8,8,24 settings at 1.5V. I just ran into the blue screen issue when I tried to drop the power for the power save profile. The ram specifies that it can run 1.35V but I don't think its stable enough at the 8,8,8, 24 settings to do so despite the packaging saying it does :(
Sarge, please don't worry about the 1.35V, that's crazy low at those timings! ;) It will run perfect at 1.5V and that is some SWEET RAM you have, the timings are awesome. It won't hardly save you even a few cents per month to run the RAM at 1.35V vs 1.5V either - it's not like lowering the V on a GPU, which would save something worth worrying about. :P hehe...well, enjoy the awesome stuff you've got, should be able to put up some great numbers! I'll bet you can easily hit 4.7 to 5GHz with that CPU too. Wink, wink, nudge nudge. ;)
I want to do a challenge or two at the 4.5ghz first to see how the heat and stability handle before I start going higher. Just because I can do 40C stress testing for eight hours during the night doesn't mean it will be like that during the day when the house temp fluctuates. Good thing its getting cooler :D, one good thing about being so far up north.
So for kicks and giggles I booted up the GPU to full while the CPU was under full load, normally this isn't an issue but after work today I was surprised. My UPS decided to freak out and start alarming on overload... :eek: I know the batteries are fresh, just replaced them earlier this year, and I know the draw from the computer isn't that great even with the overclocking...
Finally after some trouble shooting (unplugging various things from and to the UPS), I turned to all knowing UTUBE! Turns out there is a fan that is malfunctioning in the UPS itself, so now I need to find a 24 volt two inch fan to replace the little rascle in there and I'll have my UPS back...lol
BTW running at 4.8GHZ at around 50C :D
NICE! Crank it up man! :D hehe that's a great crunching OC certainly you did us all proud on this build, Sarge.
Christmas present to myself, my old ups is only 540 volt and I was experiencing over voltage warnings when the Titan spun up for extended periods of time.
Any good Ideas on four pin case fans that are not 50 bucks each? I'm thinking two 140's up top to help the H100I and three 120s to replace the current three pin fans around the case.
****Didn't notice this before but I must've struck a good deal on cyber monday, that UPS was $160, I'm very glad I didn't wait to pay the regular price now at $323 youch!***
Fan selection is highly subjective, but to get things started, are you more interested in a quiet system or max/best cooling performance?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge104
I'm really not looking for quiet fan, I'm really looking to see if anyone has any ideas on fans with high static pressure. I would love to stick a bunch of 90cfm fans on the case but if they can't push enough air in/out of the case its not worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire$torm
I'm still trying to get some dead spots figured out, with all the fans pushing the gpu is nice and cool but the top of the case where the water cooler is is warm. With the fans pulling air the gpu seems to really heat up. Currently have the bottom fans and water cooling fans pushing with the side and rear fans pulling to try and get rid of the dead spots but now I'm running into the flow issue.
Thanks for the link, looks like the 140's in the Xingmatek might do for top of the case. I just need to figure out what to put in the 120 slots now. Right now the cfm of the side, front, and rear fans is around 60 so I'm debating if I should keep a couple of that type for exhaust purposes.Quote:
Originally Posted by John P. Myers
I have two other fan options, in two sizes, for radiators and intake.
120mm Fans
Silverstone Air Penetrator AP121-L series (Link)
Bearing Type: Fluid Dynamic
RPM: 1500 RPM
Air Flow: 35.36 CFM
Static Pressure: 1.71mm/H2O
Air Speed: 2.5m/s (measured at fan exit)
Effective Airflow Range: 1 Meter
Noise Level: 22.4 dBA
Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Start Voltage: 5V DC
Rated Current: Max 0.33A (Actual) 0.09A
Rated Power: Max 3.96W (Actual)1.56W
Akasa Viper 120mm (Link)
Fan speed: 600 -1900 RPM
Max airflow: 83.63 CFM (141.75 m3/h)
Max static air pressure: 2.98 mm H2O
Noise level: 6.9 -28.9 dB(A)
Current rating: 0.17A
Voltage rating: 12V DC
Bearing: HDB (Hydro Dynamic)
Fan life expectancy: 50,000 hours
Connector: 4pin PWM
140mm Fans
Silverstone Air Penetrator AP141(Link)
Fan Size: 139mm
Bearing Type: Fluid Dynamic
RPM: 1500 rpm@12V / 1000 rpm@7V / 700 rpm@5V
Air Flow: 28.26 CFM (5V) / 41.09 CFM (7V) / 64.34 CFM (12V)
Static Pressure: 0.39 mmH2O(5V) / 0.73 mmH2O(7V) / 1.55 mmH2O(12V)
Air Speed: 1m/s(5V)/ 1.5m/s(7V)/ 2.3m/s(12V)
Effective Airflow Range: 1 meter@5V / 1.2 meter@7V / 2 meter@12V
Noise Level: 18 dBA (5V) / 20.9 dBA (7V) / 30.1 dBA (12V)
Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Start Voltage: 5V DC
Rated Current: Max 0.22A (Actual) 0.2A
Rated Power: Max 2.64W (Actual)2.4W
Akasa Viper 140 (Link)
Fan speed: 600 -1600 RPM
Max airflow: 110.61 CFM (141.75 m3/h)
Max static air pressure: 3.12 mm H2O
Noise level: 12.5-26.01 dB(A)
Voltage rating: 12V DC
Bearing: HDB (Hydro Dynamic)
Fan life expectancy: 50,000 hours
Connector: 4pin PWM
Appreciate the info, the akasa looks like it is worth looking into for my 120mm slots. Probably have to wait after the holiday is over, the g/f seems intent to invite most the family over so need to stock up on the essentials...heheh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire$torm