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So I *still* have the captain's itch. And the discussion about that massive chassis only made it worse.
But that got me thinking.
4 GPU slots. Who needs them? You can usually get dual GPUs in a single card. So 4 GPUs need only two slots, really. The need for 4 slots is really the need for 8 GPUs. So the questions:
1) Can even that new evga 1500w PSU really drive (say) 4x 690s?
2) Assuming #1 is yes, can you plug this into a normal 110v plug and it will work? Is that possible?
#1, yes. Each 690 is listed as using a maximum of 300W, so if you've got your 690s all drawing the max, that leaves 300W for the rest of computer which is easily doable since everything other than the GPUs will probably only use 125-175W at the most.Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie67
***Note: the EVGA SuperNova wattage is the continuous rating, not the peak which other manufacturers use, meaning there's a bit more headroom with it than, say, a Corsair PSU.
As for #2, yes. If the computer is the only thing on the circuit, 20A is fine, which is what it probably is in your fuse box anyway. If not, you can get a 25A or 30A from home depot for like $10. No worries.
Thanks for the answers! Now, what about a dual CPU? Say E5? Still room?Quote:
Originally Posted by John P. Myers
Ehhh....yeah, but there better be absolutely nothing else on the circuit lolQuote:
Originally Posted by zombie67
Not even a nightlight. Seriously. And no overclocking. And no 7990s.
Upgrade to 25A to be safe.
Heh. Got it. About upgrading the circuit...no wiring upgrades needed? Just the breaker?
Depends. If you've got 10ga. wiring, you're fine up to 30A. If you've got 12ga., you can cheat with 25A. 14ga. and you'll have to upgrade. 16Ga. and you should sue someone (seriously)Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie67
How to tell what gauge my electrical wiring is? My house was built in 2002, I think. So I thought to look up the codes of the day, to see what the minimum requirement was. But I'm not getting any google love.
At your local hardware/home improvement store, get a short length of 10, 12, 14 and 16 ga wire. Open up an outlet, carefully pull the electrical receptacle out a bit and compare . . . cutting power to the receptacle first is always good. Something like this can help locate the circuit breaker if the main panel is not labeled:Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie67
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-br...reaker+locator
If you don't already have one, you might want one of these to see how many watts or amps are actually being used. Might be useful for balancing load on the house circuits . . . electrical overloads can ruin your day if you have to stop crunching when they turn off the power to your house to put out the fire. On a good day the circuit breaker might trip if overloaded, on a bad day . . . maybe not. Do you know if Murphy worked on your house? I think he was at mine.
http://www.amazon.com/P3-Internation...=P3+watt+meter
Guys. I urge you, DO NOT interfere, play with or do anything to your House Wiring for unless you are qualified to do so and have a licence you can do some major damage to your House or the loved ones that lived in it before it burned down. Call a Licenced Electrician to discuss your problems.
The boat I run needs 100amp 240 Volt Dockside power x2. Sometimes we have to combine 2 50 amp cords into 1 using what we call a smart Y. Seems like we are heading that way with the home brew super computer Z is planning for himself.
=))=))Quote:
Originally Posted by John P. Myers
Tooooo late. I have opened many a panel in my day. All those residences are still standing and I'm still alive.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruncher Pete
Guys, CP makes a good point. If you do not have experience doing real electrical wiring call a licensed contractor. Or ask friends/family for referrals.... Too many crooks in the yellow pages.
On JPM's side, replacing a breaker is a five minute job but staying within code is essential.
@Z - California code is 12GA wire for 20A circuit. Can you reach your panel box easy enough to see what the AMP rating on your circuit breakers are? If they are already 20A then I think you are OK with a house built in 2002, it should have 12GA wire in those walls if the circuit breaker says 20A! :cool:
If you take the face plate off your panel you should be able to see the wire markings. You're looking for 12-3. Easier, look in the attic or crawlspace. It's marked every few feet.
Right. And you don't have to find the specific wires for the outlet in question. All outlets in the house would be wired the same (with the exception of the oven and dryer, of course). But yes, the wires will have it in clear printing and 99% chance they'll be yellow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Al McAdams
12Ga wire is typically rated at 20A, but also @ 600V, for a total capacity of 12,000W. This is why i said you could 'cheat' a little bit with 12Ga. 25A @ 110V is only 2,750W, easily handled by that wire. The next point is, just because you put a 25A fuse on the circuit does not mean the wire will even be carrying 25A. In reality it'll be no more than 21A with a 100% load on the 1500W PSU. You have plenty of fudging room here.
Word of caution, make no attempt to place a 12,000W load on the wire at any voltage other than 600V :p It doesn't work as a direct proportion. But putting a 25A fuse on a 12Ga. wire rated @ 20A and then only actually drawing a max of 21A is perfectly safe. The 21A *does* include room for peaks and spikes.
Another thing to note, drawing 21A on a 20A fuse won't throw it anyway, but upgrading to 25A will provide peace of mind an extend the life of the fuse itself.