OK, ya'll are the experts... I need a new water cooler for the Monarch Bitminer, its dripping water 1 drip over a couple of days....
I was looking at new egg and these.... which is the best one?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=-1&isNodeId=1
OK, ya'll are the experts... I need a new water cooler for the Monarch Bitminer, its dripping water 1 drip over a couple of days....
I was looking at new egg and these.... which is the best one?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=-1&isNodeId=1
Personally I'm in the same boat with a Monarch and a failed water-cooling loop. But seeing as the Monarch cost me $50, but a replacement water loop would be $150, I'm gonna just write off the Monarch.
Keep in mind, this is a closed loop, dual-pump package, so none of those on the first page of your search are even close to what you would need. I'll post what I found last month when I can get by the computer it's on. The units on the Monarchs are actually a common manufacturer that just OEM'd them for them.
OK, so I was looking at my Monarch last month and saw the part number that is printed on my radiator block leads to this on NewEgg:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA6802NB5491
which states:
Closest commercial model: Corsair H80i, also from CoolIT Systems
So, looking for something in the H80i realm, only with a dual pump package on the loop. Because the pair I have here don't have any visible port or reservoir, I don't think they're intended to have any parts of the loop opened or replaced. So you would probably be looking at the parts for a multi point cooling solution like others have posted here for CPU plus GPU kinds of configurations.
Originally Posted by dcushing
Personally I'm in the same boat with a Monarch and a failed water-cooling loop. But seeing as the Monarch cost me $50, but a replacement water loop would be $150, I'm gonna just write off the Monarch.
Keep in mind, this is a closed loop, dual-pump package, so none of those on the first page of your search are even close to what you would need. I'll post what I found last month when I can get by the computer it's on. The units on the Monarchs are actually a common manufacturer that just OEM'd them for them.Firstly, @dcushing: Where is the leak? In one of the hoses? If so, I would try Googling "Corsair H80 tubing repair" as there are probably some decent repair hacks floating around the Net. Note that if too much water drains out then your water cooler, the pump's ceramic bearing will fail. And you only need to starve it of water for a few moments for that to happen. I've learned that the hard wayBest advice, shut it down asap!
Second, @Mumps: Does the unit power up? If so, how long does it run before it starts throwing errors or shuts down?
Also note that I have never had a Corsair AIO last more then 2 years running 24/7. (I've owned a H60, H80 and a H100) CoolIT's products just aren't made to last......
I ran 6 H100 for 3 1/2 to 4 years 24/7 and they are still going. I guess I'm lucky
I do believe that to be the truth. The H100 was actually DOA out of the box. Bad fan controller. It fried two brand new Akasa 120mm fans on first run. That set me back ~$40.00. Corsair refused to even acknowledge the loss of the fans. That was final straw against Corsair/CoolIT products for me.I ran 6 H100 for 3 1/2 to 4 years 24/7 and they are still going. I guess I'm lucky
In my case, the unit will power up and run for maybe at most 15 minutes before it shuts down. (Actually trips the self-protection on the 1000W PS.)
Of the two "pumps" that are mounted on the ASICs, the one farther from the radiator "growls" and gets progressively louder until the shut down, so I'm sure that's toast. It may also have something to do with the way the radiator (and therefore the tubes) are mounted on the sled. So if there's any leak that leads to air in the system, it's guaranteed to be right there going into the tubes exiting at the top of the radiator to the pumps.No indication of any leak though. The unit ran for months without ever being moved off the shelf it was originally put on and there was never any fluid expelled I ever saw.
If I do bother repairing it, I'd most likely look to add a reservoir to the loop so I could bleed air off and add coolant if it ever became required. But I still don't think it'd be worth more than the $50 I originally paid for the Monarch to repair it.
Noisey pumps can be caused by an air bubble getting lodged in the pump chamber and the pump still be perfectly fine. If it's possible to add a few drops of water to the system, might want to try that before spending any money.In my case, the unit will power up and run for maybe at most 15 minutes before it shuts down. (Actually trips the self-protection on the 1000W PS.)
Of the two "pumps" that are mounted on the ASICs, the one farther from the radiator "growls" and gets progressively louder until the shut down, so I'm sure that's toast. It may also have something to do with the way the radiator (and therefore the tubes) are mounted on the sled. So if there's any leak that leads to air in the system, it's guaranteed to be right there going into the tubes exiting at the top of the radiator to the pumps.
If I do bother repairing it, I'd most likely look to add a reservoir to the loop so I could bleed air off and add coolant if it ever became required. But I still don't think it'd be worth more than the $50 I originally paid for the Monarch to repair it.
Yup. Understood. Cavitating is common on our Glycol loops here at the office as well, so I'm familiar with the general concept.
In this case, the Monarch loops are closed systems, so even to get to the point of trying to add any fluid, it would require breaking the loop. So I might as well insert a reservoir that can get the port for bleeding air or adding fluid.
If any of y'all want my remaining monarch it's yours for the shipping. I haven't run it for about 6 months but it was fine the last time I used it. Shoot me a PM if interested. FCFS.
You'll never know what you're living for until you know what you're willing to die for.
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